Sandlasting Equipment Information

It all starts with the air compressor. The compressor's cfm output dictates the size of nozzle you can use. Below is a chart that will help explain.

When setting the psi at the compressor, know that you are going to have at least 2 to 3 pounds of air loss per 50 feet of hose or piping, double that loss if you have tight corners or dirty filters.

 THE AFTER-COOLER

Sometimes an after-cooler is mandatory, other times not needed at all. Essentially, a radiator designed to cool down the air so that moisture can be extracted easier, prior to getting to the blast pot. Manufacturers produce air operated as well as water injected after-coolers. Air operated after-coolers work great for mobile blast operations especially when at remote locations. The more humidity that is in the air, the greater the need of an after-cooler. If you are planning on blasting with a fine media, you will likely need an after-cooler. Most commonly installed near the compressor's exit air. I have used both types of after-coolers and had good success with each. Remember to buy an after-cooler that has at least the same size, if not larger, cfm capacity rating as that of your compressor.

MOISTURE TRAP   

A good moisture trap is worth it's weight in gold to the operator. A moisture trap is designed to extract the water and debris from the air prior to meeting the blasting media. Commonly installed just before the blast pot. If the moisture trap is not working properly, the blast person is going to have a very un-productive day, as blasting media can clog easily and often. Remember that moisture traps are also built to handle specific cfm amounts. Always purchase a moisture trap that has a higher cfm capacity rating than that of your compressor.

BLAST POT

Blast pots are made in about every shape and size. Pressurized tanks work much better than the un-pressurized type. Some tanks come equipped with a vibrator that aids with the flow of fine blast media. Remember that when you are pulling the hammer down (meaning the trigger) you can consume up to 500 pounds of blast media in an hour, depending on the size of nozzle. Don't buy a tank that is too small, you will have too much down time constantly filling it. Blast Pots are also available that have 60° cones instead of the standard 45° in which helps the finer blast media flow.

BLAST HOSE COUPLINGS

I have had good success with plastic, brass and aluminum couplings. A perfect 90° cut of the blast hose is essential prior to installing. A miter box or miter saw is used when cutting blast hose. Make sure that the coupling is screwed on all the way, apply soapy water for lubricant, to the blast hose if needed. Replace the rubber gaskets regularly and the couplings will last a long time.

BLAST HOSE

Blast hose is usually 1 1/4 inch inner diameter (ID). For longer runs 1 1/2 inch ID is used for the first 50 or 100 foot. If you only need 50 foot then use 1 1/4 inch hose as well as 1 1/4 inch ID flexible whip. It is a mistake to run a smaller ID whip, you will only slow the process down. Make sure that your hose psi rating is larger than that of your compressor's.

NOZZLES

Nozzles are manufactured in about every shape and size imaginable. I mostly use a wide entry, long venturi silicon, tungsten or boron carbide. These nozzles last anywhere from 300 to 1000 hours of blasting. Boron nozzles last the longest and, of course, are the most expensive. Nozzles are available for cleaning out the inside of pipes, cradles are available for keeping the blast stream centered.

REMOTE CONTROL (the on/off switch)

Pneumatic controls are controlled by air. You have to keep the handle squeezed in order for the blast media to start and continue coming out. Electric controls, on the other hand, require no squeezing. If there is a choice involved in your situation, get the electric, there is no comparison for the operator and is well worth the cost difference.

FRESH AIR Supply (your breathing air while blasting)

Even if you plan on blasting the smallest of parts in your back yard, do not consider starting before you figure out how you are going to protect your face and lungs. Take the time to read the label of the blast media and consider the contaminants of what is being removed from the substrate. You only get one set of lungs and blasting can expose them to conditions that create un-reversible damage. Electric fresh air supply pumps are my choice, but I have had good success with air supplied from my compressor and filtered through a breathing air filter. If you are going to use your compressor's air, make sure to get an alarm that signals you that the air has been contaminated. Note:  Electric fresh air pumps do not work well in the south in the summertime due to overheating.

EAR PROTECTION

Blasting is one of the loudest, high decibel sounds that you will ever expose your ears to. I wear ear plugs inside of ear muffs. Whatever you do, cover them up the best you can before you begin blasting.

CLOTHING

Blast suits are nice but not necessary. The advantage of the blast suit over regular work clothes is the absence of pockets and the dust shedding abilities of the fabric.